Our apartment in Venice is so quiet, and this morning we somehow managed to sleep in until 10:30. So no time for breakfast - let's go out for brunch. The view from our apartment was gorgeous, with blue sky and sunshine, and we couldn't wait to be out in it all.
So onto a vaporetto, jam-packed with tourists and Italian families, for the slow trip to Academia (vaporetto number 1 stops at every stop) and a walk to our favourite cafe which we discovered is closed on Sundays! So then a leisurely walk to the southern side of Academia, along the edge of Canale della Giudecca to a large but pleasant restaurant set right on and over the edge of the busy shipping-lane canal, for what was now lunch of grilled fresh fish fillets of several types, a smallish jug of white wine and the best bread we've had for a while, followed by fabulous coffee.
Then a bit more strolling around before getting back onto the vaporetto - again on the slow-boat - getting off at San Silvestro to walk to Rialto Mercato and avoid the enormous Rialto crowds. We were pleased that we only got lost once, and that was only for a few of minutes. We bought a few tomatoes, grapes and peaches from one of the very few stalls open today, and some bread and prosciutto from our favourite corner store.
It had become very overcast by the time we took off again about an hour or so later, and we decided to walk over the Rialto Bridge and head off to the Strada Nuova area, but away from the crowds. And the way to avoid crowds is to look for the signs that point to San Marco or Rialto and do not follow them! So that is what we did - and then the rain started. Just gentle but steady rain, and without any wind so it was still quite warm. We shared the little umbrella that I had in my bag and when the rain became quite heavy, decided to step into a gorgeous little restaurant called Antico Gatoleto in Campo S. Maria Nova.
By this stage it was about 6:15 (very early for dinner in Italy) but there were some other tables taken - mostly Italian families with children - and then the storm started with loud claps of thunder and very heavy rain. We shared a mixed salad, Brian had spaghetti with mixed seafood and I had spaghetti with clams - all absolutely delicious - with a carafe of chardonnay and some bread, followed by coffee - all very acceptable.
By the time we left the restaurant, the thunder had stopped but it was still raining. We walked arm in arm under my little umbrella - and that is when we became completely and hopelessly lost! We weren't the only ones however, and met quite a few other couples who were also huddled under lights studying their maps! We finally ended up at the northern end of Venice, at Fondamenta Nuove - completely opposite where we had lunch.
And this is where we changed our rule and began looking for and following any sign that pointed to San Marco or Rialto!! We finally crossed Rialto again at about 8:30 and didn't actually ever get to Strada Nuova (or at least we don't think we did) - but that can wait for another day.
Being lost in Venice is something we both love - but it is definitely more fun when the weather is fine and the sun is still up. We're now cosily settled in our beautiful apartment, it's still raining outside and Brian is in bed reading. Think I'll join him.
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