Lunch at Avignon

After 4 days in Provence having only picnic lunches and simple dinners at our cottage (Peta & John will be horrified), it was time for a change and we had a booking at a michelin 1 star restaurant in Avignon - Christian Etienne.

We visited Avignon a few times 23 years ago and I remember the trauma of driving into the walled city and trying to find a parking spot - but today it was an absolute breeze.  Directions from Jane and our landlady had us parked in a multi-storey carpark inside the walls and under the city in no time at all.  We rose from the depths of the carpark in a lift and then a few stairs right opposite the Palais des Papes, and Christian Etienne is right next door to that.

We had about an hour to wander around the centre of the magnificent city, in and out of shops before climbing up the steep steps to the restaurant.  We both chose the "Grand Palais Menu" and Brian selected an excellent Chateauneuf du Pape.  They also had an "Autumn Menu" at the same price, but we were put off a bit by the andouillette course (once again P&J will be horrified).  Anyway, our menu was:

• 3 tiny starters:  Crispy shallots with a mousse, polenta cake (I think) with chutney fruit, and an olive biscuit.
• Codfish under a creamy mousse
• Seared Foie Gras with diced quince and mashed turnip on a sesame wafer
• Roasted medallion of monkfish with saffron parsnips and a bouillabaisse jus
• Challans duck breast with shredded braised leeks and quince
• Selection from the cheese trolley with quince jelly and fruity jams
• Poached figs with a creme brûlée and orange blossom icecream
• Everything chocolate - chocolate icecream, chocolate mousse, chocolate cream and dark chocolate strips
• Coffee and 4 tiny petits fours - chocolate slice, macaron, citron jelly, canneles cake

I could only manage one of the petits fours - though they all looked fabulous - but Brian somehow managed to taste them all.  The restaurant is quite small and was completely full and lunch was delicious.  The staff were charming (even though the front-of-house reminded me a bit of Basil Fawlty) and we became best friends with 3 men sitting at a nearby table - all chefs from Norway doing a week's recky of the Cotes du Rhone region.

Then off to the Palais des Papes for a couple of hours (really needed to spend much more time there to do it justice).  Pope Clement the fifth moved the papacy from Rome to Avignon in 1309, the palace was built within 20 years and was home to all popes (7 official popes and 2 anti-popes) until1376.  Since then, it has undergone many renovations, has had many different residents and is an incredible place to visit. 

It was raining as we left the palace, and quite cold, so we headed to a cafe for coffee and waited for the rain to stop, and then set off to visit the Pont St-Benezet - otherwise known as "Sur le Pont d'Avignon".  When we went there on our honeymoon, we joined hands and formed a circle with the kids and danced as we sang the song - as is the tradition for some reason (there were other crazy people doing that at the time too) - but today it was freezing sur le pont and I couldn't wait to get back inside the walls of Avignon!

Then all we had to do was find the carpark.  We couldn't for the life of us find the entrance!  We knew roughly where it was and eventually asked a couple of passing rubbish men for help. They were very amused because we were standing about 3 metres from the entrance!

Then back home for dinner of pumpkin soup (from the remaining chicken stock I made and froze in Bouilland and a small pumpkin we bought at Uzes), pasta called "schruwe" from Alsace tossed with morels in a butter sauce, a bowl of salad and fresh bread.

I've been talking to Brian about that diet where you fast for 2 days every week. I think that we might have to consider it when we get home - or perhaps a modified version where we only eat for 2 days per week will be called for.