Wednesday, October 2, 2013

Vezeley

We had a bit of a sleep-in this morning and called at Anka, Lincoln & Oscar's cottage at about 10:45 for coffee before setting off for the village of Vezeley.

We decided to take the "no toll charge"option with Jane so that we could take the more scenic route through villages, fields and forests and came across a gorgeous market on the way - unfortunately not one of us can remember the name of the village - and stopped to buy bread for dinner tonight, fruit and a straw hat for me.

Then along the road past several fabulous chateaux and through tiny villages before stopping at a "pique-nique" spot for a delicious lunch prepared by Brian of bread, cheese, cold roast beef (left-overs), salad, nectarines and a bottle of burgundian red.

Then on to Vezeley. Brian and I have been there before and absolutely love it.  We parked in the middle of the village, near some beautiful little cottages with colourful gardens, and then walked up the steep, winding road, past little boutiques, art shops, jewellery shops and cafes to the unbelievably beautiful Basilica of Saint Mary Magdalene.

The official French website says that the Benedictine abbey was founded in the 9th century and soon after acquired the "relics of Mary Magdalene" and became a place of pilgrimage.  It became a basilica in 1920 and has been listed as a world heritage site by Unesco since 1979.  The basilica is almost as big as the village itself, can be seen for miles, and has a simplicity which is breathtakingly beautiful.

I crept down to the tiny Crypt of Saint Madeleine (Mary Magdalene).  It is a very special place, lit by candles, where complete silence is required and I admired the beautiful statue of a nun praying at the alter.  After I climbed the stairs and returned to the football oval sized basilica, I ran into Anka and we discussed, in whispers, how special the crypt was.  Anka said "At first I thought that nun was a statue, but then I saw her move" - and she was right.  I couldn't resist and had to return to the crypt where I sat on my own with the beautiful praying nun who was wearing the old fashioned, long, flowing white habit - such a special time - before a group of foreign tourists stomped in and disturbed my meditation!  


So even the boys, who were not nearly as enthusiastic as Anka and I, seemed to be moved by the experience of visiting the basilica.  We went outside to the gardens which have incredible views over the surrounding countryside, before meandering back down the hill - running into a gorgeous 7 year-old schnauzer on the way - to a terrace bar overlooking the village square for beer (the boys), tea (Anka) and coffee (me).


Then back home the quick way - mostly along the motorway. 

Lincoln had popped a rolled shoulder of lamb in the oven to slow-roast before we left this morning, and this evening we had a fabulous dinner of the delicious lamb, a middle-eastern quinoa pilaf and steamed brussel sprouts, followed by cheese and chocolates, and of course some fantastic burgundian wines.  

Another beautiful day in Burgundy leaving us exhausted yet again.




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